Julia Turshen encourages us to embrace a more flexible approach to cooking. Previously, she was bound by the need for precision in her recipes, influenced by her personal struggles with disordered eating and the meticulous nature of her work as a cookbook author and co-author. However, Turshen has since discovered the joy of a more relaxed culinary style and now aims to inspire the same in others through her innovative method of recipe charts.
Launched on Instagram and her Substack in 2023, her philosophy is encapsulated in the phrase "Keep Calm & Cook On." Her inaugural chart, "One-pot rice + stuff," invited home cooks to select a protein, vegetables, seasonings, a liquid, and garnishes to complement their rice, sparking a positive reaction that led to the creation of additional charts for soups, salads, and cornbread, eventually culminating in a book concept. "The charts have allowed me to visually communicate my cooking philosophy rather than just describing it," Turshen explains.
"This book is not just a collection of recipes but also a guide to understanding how they are constructed. Gaining this insight is liberating and opens up a world of culinary exploration." Her October 2024 release, "What Goes With What," features 20 charts, 100 recipes, and endless creative possibilities, with sections dedicated to stews, quick pasta dishes, fruit-based desserts, and more. The book concludes with menu suggestions for various occasions, all presented in chart form.
Contrary to what one might think, Turshen's charts are not about imposing rules but rather about fostering a shift in mindset from a rigid adherence to a single "correct" method of cooking to a more laid-back, adaptable approach. By incorporating approximate measurements like "a handful," offering numerous alternative ingredients, and suggesting serving sizes that can accommodate a range of guests, Turshen promotes a more casual attitude towards cooking and dining. "You're preparing a meal, not debugging a software program," she emphasizes. Each recipe in the book is accompanied by a photograph taken by Turshen herself, capturing the dishes in her home kitchen without the intervention of food stylists or excessive fuss.
Visual learners have reported that Turshen's method has made cooking more accessible to them, and individuals with autism and other neurological differences have also found her approach to be particularly enlightening. For those feeling overwhelmed by the prospect of hosting a holiday meal or contributing to a potluck, Turshen offers reassurance and guidance. "If you're not yet confident in your kitchen skills, I believe you soon will be," she writes in the introduction to her new book. "And rest assured, I have faith in you already."
As Friendsgiving approaches, I was drawn to a dish that embodies the warmth and inclusivity of Turshen's approach: Twice-Baked Cacio e Pepe Potatoes, featured in the chapter on stuffed vegetables. This dish involves taking a vegetable with a hollow center, filling it with a starchy ingredient, adding a rich component, and finishing with a bold flavor element, resulting in a delectable stuffed vegetable that echoes the classic Italian pasta dish but with potatoes as the star. When I inquired about recreating this recipe, Turshen suggested baking the potatoes in advance or preparing the entire recipe a day ahead, then cooling and refrigerating the potatoes overnight before reheating them at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes.
To save time, she also advised using air frying or microwaving as an alternative to baking. After that, only three simple steps with three ingredients (excluding salt and pepper) and a bit of patience are all that stand between us and a comforting batch of cacio e pepe potatoes. With Turshen's encouragement, I donned my apron, preheated the oven, and set out to prepare a generous batch of stuffed potatoes for an upcoming feast. I adhered closely to the recipe, except for the sour cream, which I replaced with plain Greek yogurt due to an oversight in my shopping list. As the potatoes baked for a second time to achieve their golden-brown, twice-baked perfection, I realized that this improvisation was exactly the spirit of Turshen's approach.
"While I'm delighted if you follow the recipes directly," Turshen writes, "I'm even more thrilled when you adapt them and create your own signature dishes." The final dish was crispy on the outside, fluffy and creamy within, and pleasantly peppery, sparking playful competition among my Friendsgiving guests for the last serving. Turshen reminds us that even if our cacio e pepe creations aren't "perfect," what truly matters is the time spent together around the table. "Both of my parents worked full-time since my birth, so it was a rare treat when we could all sit down for a meal together," Turshen reflects. "As I've grown older, I've come to value these moments as the best way to connect with loved ones. My marriage, family, and relationships are my top priorities, and food is the social adhesive that binds us all."
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